Copyright © 2017 Burnham-on-sea Woodturning Club

Burnham-on-sea          Woodturning Club

Meeting Reviews

October 2017 - Tony George

September 2017 - Bryan Milham

September 2017 - AWGB

August 2017 - Mark Hancock

June 2017 - John Aitken

April 2017 - Chris Foweraker

March 2017 - Mark Sanger

February 2017 - George Foweraker

January 2017 - Paul Sweet

November 2016 - Jason Breach

October 2016 - Bryan Milham

September 2016 - Mark Sanger

August 2016 - Keith Fenton

July 2016 - George Foweraker

June 2016 - Chris Foweraker

June 2016 - Stuart Mortimer

April 2016 - Pete Moncrieff-Jury

March 2016 - Mark Sanger

February 2016 - Ray Blake

January 2016 - George Foweraker

December 2015 - Nick Agar

November 2015 - Paul Hannaby

October 2015 - George Foweraker

September 2015 - Mark Sanger

August 2015 - Jason Breach

July 2015 - Chris Foweraker

June 2015 - Nick Agar


March 2017 - Mark Sanger

Mark’s demonstration focused on the challenges of hollow forms with two interesting projects, firstly a Chinese water bucket and secondly an ingenious hollow form with narrow neck quickly made as two halves of a box glued together.


The water bucket was made from a piece of end grain ash with the corners knocked off on the band saw. Having turned to round with a spindle roughing gouge the base end was squared off with a parting tool and then again to form a spigot.


Top Tip 1 - on the same end, a bowl gouge was used to create an overhang so that when reversed into the chuck on the spigot it was possible to completely shape the outside without having to have a spigot on each end. This is usually fine when using native woods but with an expensive exotic wood the additional use of wood may not be acceptable.


Top Tip 2 - as long as there are no tearouts, don’t get too concerned about any turning marks at this stage as they can be easily removed by abrasive.


Finally the neck end was cleaned up with a skew and the bucket was ready for hollowing. As the bucket was no more than 5” deep it was OK to use a 10mm spindle gouge for the hollowing.


Top Tip 3 - when hollowing ensure that the handle is higher than the tool tip













The inside of the hollow form was finished with a scraper.


The next step was the cutouts - the decision on location takes into account the rule of thirds and the grain structure. Having marked the position of the ‘handles” of the bucket and the depth of the handles, the vertical line of the handles was drawn using an homemade “T” square resting on the top lip of the bucket.


Top Tip 4 - firstly, with a small drill, drill the corners of cutouts to ensure a clean finish when the vertical and horizontal cuts are made with a trusty ‘LIDL’ pull saw.













The bucket was now reverse mounted in the chuck using a jam chuck and router mat so that the base could be finished off using a spindle gouge and skew to create an indented base which was finally sanded smooth.


Scorching the whole bucket with a blow torch could be a hazardous procedure!


Top Tip 5 - if possible scorch outside, have a fire extinguisher to hand, a large pan of some sort the cover the piece in case of fire, clear all shavings from underneath and ensure that no embers are deposited on the workshop floor


Having scorched once then a small wire brush (a suede brush) was used to rub out the grain and then the scorching and wire brush procedure repeated. Finally the presentation of the piece was completed by tying a number of thin black bamboo stalks together with annealed copper wire and the completed bucket mounted on an appropriate base e.g. wood or slate.

















The second project was a hollow form box in oak …

















Using a standard box method … block held in 4-prong drive, turn to round, spigot on each end, shape the general form, 6mm parting tool at lid/base join and then again to increase rebate to 9mm, and finally a 3mm parting tool to separate the lid and base leaving a registration mark on the lid to highlight the max width of the base spigot.













Mount the lid and hollow out, initially making a hole right through to form the vessel opening. Continue the hollow out up to the registration mark and then use a skew to create an almost parallel side (tapered inwards slightly) until the base fits snugly bearing in mind that the lid and base will eventually be glued together once the hollowing of both baser and lid has been completed.


Hollow out the base, fit the top and then finish the top opening. Use a fluted parting tool to create beads from top to bottom of the vessel. Having glued lid and base together mount the top in a jam chuck and shape the base slightly concave and job done, apart from finishes of course.













A very satisfying 30min project!


Once again, thanks to Mark for an enjoyable and informative evening.


David Langan